How to make it as easy on your dog - get instant results - and ensure long lasting success.
This video takes you through these steps, and more...
But you have no idea how many times we come across people who are either not aware of them, after they have had failures with the dog fence they purchased or have a system that was not a good match for their property and/or their dog. Getting the right system will mean years of trouble free dog containment.
Porch Sitting Syndrome... If you would like to know more about 'porch sitting syndrome', Plus get our FREE dog fence buying guide then complete the form for more information. We explain this in more detail and... how to avoid it.
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These points are just a few basic guides to the training for your Dog Fence; they are designed to give you a basic understanding of how to introduce your dog to the fence system with the least amount of disturbance to your dog and to massively improve the results you get.
A complete step-by-step training guide is included in each kit – this will cover these areas and other points in detail and is easy to follow. (Audible Beeper training – Flag recognition – distraction training and temptation training)
It’s only 10 or so minutes per session.
There is more to the training and this is set out in the step-by-step training guide supplied in each kit. But, the idea here is to give you 3 small tips that make it really easy on your dog and on your to achieve instant results and follow an easy process to make those results last.
With our receiver collar the results will be instant, just follow the guide for fitting and adjusting the collar and then it is just a series of steps to follow to keep reinforcing the basics for your dog.
What we want to do is to get your dog to make his own decision to stay away from the fence, escape holes, front driveway or garden beds.
If you introduce your dog to the system too quickly and at a high level this will scare and confuse the dog – to the point where he will not come out of the house or off the porch (hence the term ‘porch sitting syndrome’)
If this happens you run the risk of the dog escaping a few months later as they do not have full respect for the radio signal.
Train your dog at their favourite escape hole or at the most vulnerable area first.
Your dog’s first reaction and experience of the corrections from the collar will be their biggest reaction and most memorable experience. So, by first training your dog where they love to jump the fence or at the open gateway they are more likely to stay away from that spot.
- Do one little section at a time to complete one training session at each small section (then see point 2)
- Use the low levels in the collar so it is as gentle experience as possible, but you still want to get a reaction. You still need to exceed your dog's comfort level in order for him to refuse to follow you through the gate.
- Put out the flags as you complete each little section as a visual reminder about the area you just trained your dog.
80% of the training will be to walk them around their ‘safety area’.
It is important that the dog is fully relaxed around the area they are allowed to play in.
By walking them around the ‘safe area’ each time you start and finish a training session you make them comfortable about where they can go.
This also helps to make it your dog's decision to stay away from the fence rather than being scared to stay away and then attempting to power through later.
*** if your dog refuses to go with you on the lead – then just do laps of the safe area with no ‘correction training’ at all – this helps relax them***
Again more details are in the training guide.
Keep your dog secure between training sessions.
Once you start the training do not let your dog out unless they are on the lead. Keep your dog secure at all times – when they are with you (or playing with the kids) they must be kept secure and under control.
The training guide explains how to get to the point where you can let them go quite quickly but you must not allow your dog to wander at all.